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Reminiscences of Old St. Marys
BY
JAMES T. VOCELLE
“Oh, would you like a calm retreat
where health and joys perpetual
meet,
And birds with many a son
Make music in each brush and brake—
O, would you of such bliss partake?
Then come, come at once along
To Beautiful St. Marys by the Sea.”
Price
Twenty-Five Cents.
Copyright 1913,
by
James Thomas Vocelle
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Reminiscences of Old St. Marys.
Way down in the extreme
southeastern corner of the State of Georgia, near where the waves of
the majestic Atlantic break loudly upon the shore, is situated the
historic little city of St. Marys.
Nature in one of her kindest moods bestowed upon the
site of this historic town her choicest gifts, leaving but little
for man to do to promote health, comfort, conveniences or aesthetic
enjoyment. War, fire, storms and pestilence have paid direful
visitations, but king Nature ever promptly covers up the scars with
flower and tree and shrub and vine, and a lovlier, more restful
scene never delighted the eye of man. Broad avenues, carpeted with
grass and shaded with giant live-oak and sycamore trees, stretching
from the river’s bank to the primeval forests of pine and palmetto,
and in intersected at right angels by streets that paralel the
river, and a bold creek with a druidical grove of venerable oak—such
are the physical features of the town.
When the first white man landed upon her sacred soil is
unknown but it is believed by some to be the very spot on which
John Ribault, who was sent over by Admiral Coligny of
France, to explore Florida, landed. On the first of May 1562 he
came up a river which he called May river, and it is more than
probable that this is the same river that we call the St. Marys and
which the Indians called Thathothathogupka.
Prior to 1765 Camden County was not included in Georgia;
Oglethorpe’s grant only extended to the Altamaha river. On
Nov. 10, 1753, Gov. James Wright of Georgia, with the
governors of Virginia, North and South Carolina, met at Augusta. A
treaty was made with the Indians and about the same time Great
Britain and France made a treaty with Spain that Florida should be
given over to the British. So
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Georgia’s limits were extended to the St. Marys
river on the south.
In 1765 the parishes of St. Mary and St. Thomas were
laid out. In 1777 these two parishes were named Camden county,
after the Earl of Camden, a British statesman.
In the year 1788 the city of St. Marys was laid out by
James Findlay, county surveyor of Camden county, and to this
wise man is largely due the wonderful beauty for which St. Marys is
justly famed.
The first English settlers of St. Marys were: Henry
Osborne, Thos. Norris, Jacob Weed, John
Alexander, Lankley Bryant, Richard Cole,
Jonathan Conyers, Wm. Ready, Simon Dillingham,
Isaac Wheelar, Wm. Norris, James Seagrove,
Lodwick Ashley, James Findley, Robert Seagrove and
a Mr. Gallop. The beautiful avenues of St. Marys are named
for these men, who did so much for the early history of the town.
St. Marys was chartered as a town in 1792, during the
administration of Governor Edward Telfair. In 1857 it was
chartered as a city.
The old brick building now used for the Catholic church
was formerly the bank of St. Marys. This bank was incorporated, by
the legislature of Georgia, in 1826 and was the twenty-third to be
chartered in the State. The capital stock of the Bank was $250,000
and the cashier received a salary of $2,500 per annum. The first
cashier of the Bank was Mr. Abram Bessent, he having
resigned, the directors elected a Mr. Winter cashier. One
morning they awoke to find that the night before Mr. Winter
had taken French leave and had carried with him the greater part of
the bank’s money. As telegraphs and railroads were few in those
days, Mr. Winter was never again heard of. St. Marys was
without a banking establishment until the growing needs of the town
necessitated the forming of one in 1911.
St. Marys has many old and historic buildings, among
them is the Presbyterian church, 113 years old, the oldest building
now standing and the oldest church in Georgia with the possible
exception of Old Midway in Liberty county.
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It is said that when Florida
belonged to Spain that St. Marys was a great smuggling port and the
officers were keeping such a sharp lookout that the smugglers could
not land their gin, rum and cigars. So one dark night they stole
the minister’s horse from the stable, carried it to this old church
and hoisted into the belfry, where next morning from its lofty perch
its neighing attracted the attention of the entire population of the
town. Of course the unsuspecting customs officers, as well as the
other inhabitants, spent the day wondering at the strange sight of a
horse in the church steeple and speculations as to who were the
mischievous culprits that put him there. And so while the parley
was going on and plans were in operation to get him down the
smugglers made good their wares and were off to sea with the ebb
tide.
Another old and historic building is Orange Hall, now
owned by Judge J.L. Sweat, of Waycross. This building, which
resembles an old colonial mansion such as a well-to-do southern
planter lived in before the Civil War, is built entirely of white
pine and situated as it is in the heart of St. Marys, it presents an
imposing sight indeed.
A few miles from St. Marys, hidden almost from view,
lying far back in the forest, may be seen the ruins of an old
building. This building is made entirely of tabby and closely
resembles the old monasteries built on the St. Johns river,
Florida. It is more than probable that it was built for such a
purpose. This old building has been standing for ages, when it was
first built is not known, its past history is buried in obscure
darkness and is never likely to be brought to light but it stands to
remind us that long before our ancestors came to America that the
Spanish were here trying to convert the Indians.
Three miles from St. Marys, though still within the
corporate limits, Sweetwater Branch crosses the public road. The
waters of this little stream are clear and pleasant to the taste,
whence its name. In the olden times while the red men still roamed
the forest in that vicinity, it is told that one day Withlacooche,
an aged chieftain, was seated beside the
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road vainly trying to extract a thorn from his
foot. Pretty Mary Jones, an amiable white girl and a belle
in her class, coming along and seeing the old warrior’s predicament,
volunteered her assistance and quickly had the foot relieved of its
invader. Full of gratitude, the old Indian told her he would surely
help her if she ever got into trouble. Shortly after this the
Smashing Nancy, a United States recruiting vessel, appeared in the
harbor and began to solicit men to enlist in the navy. Among the
number that enlisted was Ben Johnson to whom Mary
Jones was betrothed. When poor Mary heard of it her
heart was broken. She felt if her lover went away on a long cruise
he would never return. Half distracted, she was walking along the
same road loudly weeping and bewailing her fate, when she was espied
by old Withlacooche, who quickly approached her and in
sympathetic tones inquired what her trouble was. Between violent
sobs the poor girl stated her case. “you were good to
Withlacooche,” said the old chief, with feeling, “now
Withlacooche will be good to you,” and he gathered a handful of
red berries and green leaves and scattered them on the water of
Sweetwater Branch. “Now see,” he resumed, “Withlacooche has
cast a spell on these waters and whosever shall drink of them will
surely return. Bring your lover here and make him drink.” Inspired
with new hope, Mary brought Ben to the stream and he
drank. He went away on the cruise, but the spell brought him back,
and he and faithful Mary were happily wedded.
During the war of 1812 St. Marys was invaded by the
British. They landed at Point Peter Neck, where a fort had been
established by the government, but the garrison consisted of only
about 100 men and they were powerless against so many British. The
Biritsh defeated them and then marched on to St. Marys. Upon
arriving here they pillaged and burnt the place. The collector of
customs, Major Clark, had in his possession a hundred
thousand dollars of government money, but hearing of the approach of
the British, he managed to secrete the money, and though boldly
demanded to deliver it, he as bravely refused. This enraged the
British
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and because he eluded their search for this
treasure, they ascended the St. Marys river for the purpose of
burning his valuable mill located near the spot where Folkston,
Charlton county, Georgia now stands. Twenty-three barges piled with
British soldiers ascended the river with this terrible purpose in
view. But while ascending, they were attacked by a party of
twenty-eight men commanded by Captain William Cone. As soon
as they were attacked they fired their cannon, but the palmetto on
both sides of the river served as a screen for Cone’s men so
that the shot proved harmless. Cone’s men took advantage of
every turn in the river to fire on them and every shot brought down
a man. The British
PHOTO PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH
finding themselves exposed to so deadly a fire
returned to St. Marys and when they arrived they reported 180 men
killed and as many wounded. That 28 men could defeat twenty-three
barges full of British soldiers seems almost a miracle, but
Cone’s men were fighting for life, liberty and country and
nothing daunted them.
History says that this was one of the most remarkable
feats ever recorded in the annals of war.
Major Archibald Clark, owner of the mills, was
born in Savannah August, 1782, where he received his primary
education. He was then sent to the famous law school at Litchfield,
Conn., where he met and fell in love with the beautiful
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and accomplished Miss Rhoda Wadsworth,
daughter of Capt. Elija Wadsworth, of the Continental Army.
He was descended from Capt. Joseph Wadsworth, who secreted
the charter of Connecticut in the famous oak tree on the night of
October 31, 1687. All students of history are familiar with this
dramatic episode. Major Clark returned to Savannah and
received his degree of barrister-at-law and then hurried back to
Connecticut to claim his bride.
He removed to St. Marys in 1802 and purchased the
unfinished house, which stood opposite Orange Hall, (not then in
existence), and settled down for life.
It was prophesied at that time that St. Marys would be a
very large city. It contained nearly 1,000 inhabitants,
distinguished for their industry and hospitality, just as its
present inhabitants are, and it was the boast of the people that in
no place south of Charleston could merchandise and produce be bought
so cheap. Smoked and jerked meat was furnished in abundance from
Ware, Appling, Lowndes and Irwin counties at 3c a pound and bacon at
6c.
A railroad was projected to Columbus. It was
incorporated by the legislature of the state in 1836 and among the
incorporators were the most prominent citizens of St. Marys and
Camden county. If it had been built who knows but what St. Marys
would have rivaled Savannah and Charleston? But cruel are the
decrees of fate. Savannah reached out her arms and built a railroad
through Ware and the other counties and cut off St. Marys’ supplies.
St. Marys was an important port of entry in those days
and it was in the administration of the illustrious Thomas
Jefferson, 1807, that Major Clark was appointed collector
of the port. At that time the salary, perqusites [sic], &c.,
amounted to about $7,000 a year. With his law practice and other
income this brilliant young lawyer was anchored for life. He served
the city as mayor a number of years and served as collector from the
time of his appointment until his death which occurred a few months
before the inauguration of President. He now lies peacefully
sleeping in our ancient city of the dead where there is naught to
disturb his repose. Peace to his ashes and may the rememberance
[sic]
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of his courage and bravery ever live as an
immortal monument to one of St. Marys’ most distinguished citizens
and patriotic sons.
St. Marys is indeed beautiful but what adds more to its
beauty than anything else is its cemetery. Situated as it is at the
edge of town it owes its charm to the ancient and venerable live oak
trees that shade it. Majestic and solemn, draped and festooned with
long gray moss, these giants of the forest stretch a canopy of
perennial green over the city of the dead. Asleep in this beautiful
and secluded spot are many heroes of the Confederacy, soldiers of
the Revolution and beloved citizens of St. Marys. The oldest stone
in the cemetery is that of Richard Gascoigne, who died in
1801. The grave of one old Revolutionary solider bears the
following inscription, the syntax of which is somewhat loose.
“Sacred to the memory of John Brown, who was born
at South Kingston, R.I.., 1765, and died at St. Marys, Ga,. 1820.
This stone is erected to an honest man, a soldier of the Revolution
in his youth and in his old age an humble christian.”
A few years ago the body of Capt. John Williams
was removed from this cemetery to Arlington, the national cemetery,
after resting here for 92 years. The bones were perfect, showing no
signs of decay. The following inscription was upon the monument:
“Here lies the remains of John Williams, esquire, late a
captain of the corps of the United States Marine, was born in
Stafford county, Virginia, the 24th of August, 1765, and
died on the 29th of September, 1812, at Camp New Hope in
East Florida.”
When the Civil War came on, the citizens of St. Marys
left the place and went farther up the river, most of them going to
Traders Hill, about 100 miles up. In 1863, ST. Marys was bombarded
by the gunboat John Adams. A blockade had been formed at Fernandina
and this gunboat was making the ascent of the river to seize some
cotton above St. Marys and was fired on by a citizen of the town,
who killed the pilot of the gunboat. This so incensed the commander
that he immediately retaliated by turning his guns on St. Marys and
practically destroyed the place. A few buildings
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escaped; Orange Hall, the Methodist church, the
Presbyterian church and a few others. The Catholic church, the
Episcopal church and the Camden County Academy were among the
buildings destroyed.
When, in 1865, the citizens returned from their exodus
they found ruin and devastation everywhere visible, but with
unconquerable resolve they set to work to rebuild the home so dear
to their hearts and in a few months they had the town partly
rebuilt.
A memorable incident in the history of St. Marys was the
visit here in 1875 of Mr. Nathaniel Bishop, who came in his
little paper canoe, “The Maria Theresa.” Mr. Bishop, who was
an extensive traveler, came all the way from Quebec, in Canada, to
the Gulf of Mexico in this canoe.
In a book, which he has written, entitled “The Voyage of
the Paper Canoe,” he has the following to say of St. Marys:
“At dusk the town of St. Marys in its wealth of foliage
opened to my view from across the lowlands, and soon after the paper
canoe was carefully stored in a building belonging to one of its
hospitable citizens.”
“One evening, while enjoying the hospitality of Mr.
Silas Fordham at his beautiful winter residence, Orange Hall, a
note signed by the Hon. J.M. Arnow, mayor of the city, was
handed me. Mr. Arnow, in the name of the city government,
invited my presence at the Spencer House. Upon arriving there a
surprise awaited me; the citizens of the place had gathered to
welcome the paper canoe and its owner and to express the kindly
feeling they as southern citizens held toward their northern
friends.”
This incident is still fresh in the memory of the old
citizens of the place. The mayor, Mr. Arnow, was the uncle
of our esteemed townsmen, Messrs. I.F. and C.S. Arnow.
Mr. Bishop says that he left St. Marys with a
strange longing to return to its interesting environs and study here
the climatology of southern Georgia.
Prior to the Civil War the county seat of Camden was
Jefferson Town, an important commercial center inthe [sic] early
days. But soon after the war this place became too much
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out of the way and the court house and other
buildings were built at St. Marys. The county seat has remained
here ever since.
Not far from St. Marys is Cumberland Island, the largest
island on the south Atlantic coast. Upon this island is Dungeness,
the winter home of Mrs. Lucy Carnegie, the widow of Thomas
M. Carnegie, a brother of Andrew, the great
philanthropist. This island of Cumberland was so named after the
Duke of Cumberland by an Indian chief, Tonawanda. When
Tonawanda went to London with Oglethorpe the Duke
gave him a gold watch to tell how the time went, and on his return
he named this beautiful island Cumberland in honor of the Duke.
Oglethorpe was so pleased with this act of the
old Indian’s good will that he is said to have erected on the
southern end of the island a hunting lodge which he called
Dungeness. This place was given by the state to General
Nathaniel Green, in recognition of his great military services
to the country. General Green lived there himself, but after
his death the place was occupied by his widow, Mrs. Miller,
and her daughter Mrs. Shaw.
At the extreme southern end of the island in a little
private burial ground was buried the tried and trusted friend of
Washington, Major General Henry Lee, better known as “Light
Horse Harry Lee,” the father of General Robert E. Lee.
At the time of his death General Lee was visiting Mrs.
Shaw, and the older soldier, who was in feeble health, breathed
his last on March 25, 1818, and with military honors, was laid to
rest beneath the sod of Georgia.
During a recent session of the Virginia legislature a
bill was passed appropriating the sum of $500 to defray the expenses
of removing the remains of General Lee from Dungeness to
Lexington, and on May 30, 1913, his body was carried to Virginia by
the committee appointed for that purpose. So after resting for over
95 years beneath the soil of Georgia all that is mortal of Major
General Henry Lee has been conveyed to its final resting place,
the vault of the Lee family in the Lee chapel at
Washington and Lee University.
In the vernal months of 1870 the grave of his father was
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visited by General Robert E. Lee. He
passed through St. Marys en route to Dungeness and expressed his
delight in seeing the place. It was the last visit of the old hero,
he was soon to join his father in the great beyond. Six months
after his visit the great man fell asleep at Lexington, bequeathing
to his fellow men and to the whole world the matchless example and
the heroic name of Robert E. Lee.
Camden county has had many noted residents, among them
were General John Floyd, an officer of the State Militia who
distinguished himself in the war of 1812. His son, General
Charles L. Floyd, Major General Duncan L. Clinch, who was
a soldier of great distinction, a member of Congress and a candidate
for Governor on the Whigg ticket. Andrew J. Miller, an
eminent Georgian, was born at Point Peter near St. Marys.
Lieutenant General Wm. T. Hardee, a noted Confederate officer,
was also a native of Camden. From the famous Floyd family is
also descended Hon. William Gibbs McAdoo, Secretary of the
Treasury of the United States and builder of the famous Hudson
tunnels.
Perhaps it may seem strange to the reader that a town
redolent with historical associations as St. Marys is and situated
in such a commanding location should have remained untouched by the
business of the outside world so long, but St. Marys is rapidly
coming to her own, a new day is breaking, a brighter sky than ever
yet made luminous this beautiful and secluded spot is dawning upon
her. Her eyes are set toward the future and “Beautiful St. Marys by
the Sea,” surrounded by its ancient relics of the past, standing in
a world of its own, as it were, with its interesting environments
awaits with outstretched arms the dawn of the new day. May her
hopes be realized and may He who rules over the welfare of all the
world, send down upon the most beautiful spot on Georgia’s map his
choicest blessings!
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